Danger: Wouldn't a fly swatter be easier?
Japanese Man: Man who catch fly with chopstick accomplish anything.
Danger: Ever catch one?
Japanese Man: Not yet.
Okay, fine. I didn't have this conversation. I would have loved it if I had, but this is actually a conversation from the Karate Kid. But, if you had come face to face with this guy, you'd forgive me for 'going there' and throwing the Miyagi association together.
This gentleman was my sushi chef at Sushi Bar Ginsen in the Ginza district of Tokyo. I've actually stayed at the same hotel in Ginza each of my 3 visits to Tokyo, and I discovered this gem of an eatery on my first visit, and it became an instant favorite. In all, I'd say I've probably logged a good 14-15 visits to this place, and I can assure you it will be the first place I go upon my next return, too.
The Ginza district is about a 10 minute walk from the Tsukiji fish market, which is the literal heart of the Japanese fish circulatory system. Each morning, this fish market receives the fresh fish of the day, which is then pumped out steadily to supply something like 90% of all of Japan's fish. You can go there, but you have to go there early, and there is nothing better than a fresh sushi breakfast at 5am while watching the mayhem ensue all around you.
What does this mean for my Sushi Samurai friend? It means that even his humble little establishment has the freshest fish possible, each and every morning. The restaurant is tiny, with about 12 tiny seats in total, all crammed around a semi-circle conveyor belt. It's a typical color-coded system - the cheaper fish on the white plates, the more expensive on the yellow, green, blue, and up to gold plates. But it's all good!
So, let me give you some instructions on how it works here:
1) Konichiwa
2) Sit down at the counter on the tiny stool
3) Wash your dirty mitts with the wet towel
4) Spoon a couple tiny spoonfuls of the gunpowder green tea into your cup; fill it with hot water from the spigot located directly on the counter in front of you (Japan is full of these clever little contraptions and conveniences)
5) Start shouting rudely
The ordering is done by simply shouting out what you want. "Maguro!" to which my friend replies emphatically, "Maguuuuu-ro!! Hai!!". It took me quite a few visits to actually get this down, because it's so out of nature for me. I kept waiting for him to make eye contact with me, and would then cautiously and politely mention a couple of items, "Uh, yakitorosamon, and, uh, maguro, please...". He would give me the same enthusiastic reply, but his eyes betrayed his true feelings, that I was a complete and total sissy (as did the eyes of my fellow patrons). When I finally mustered up the courage one visit to shout rudely in the air, to his back, what I wanted, he turned to me, shouted back, "Haaaa-machi!!! Hai!!" and one tear rolled down his cheek. I was his son.
Although there are dozens of items to choose from - eel, octopus, different tunas, mackerel, salmon, veggies, rolls, and on and on and on.... I have found a few favorites which I go for on each visit - and it centers around the tuna!
Maguro is the term for blue fin tuna, and Ahi is the yellow fin (and there are even more variations among just these, too). But what I've learned is that whereas many Western sushi joints just say 'tuna' on their menu, in Japan it would be like ordering 'beef' at a steakhouse, as opposed to a rib eye, filet, or other more specific cut. You can reference this handy guide for a more complete overview, but I will tell you now, it's all about the Chutoro - the deliciously fatty underbelly of the tuna, and marbled like a good prime rib.
My most recent visit, I enjoyed several of my favorites. Yakitorosamon (right) is a seared (with skin on) salmon treat which is a must have.
I ordered it with some Hawaii Rolls, which have some maguro and some avocado. Very basic, but very delicious.
This tasty plate of maguro and bintoro (left) highlights the differences between two cuts of tuna. Where they both don't differ? Delicious!
The ahi (right) is a nice change mid-meal, because rather than eaten with wasabi, it is served with horseradish and diced spring onion. Amazing!
My next plates (left) were a bit of kanpachi - a type of yellow tail - and some unagi, or eel. I have to say, in comparison to the amazing kanpachi I enjoyed on several other occasions here, this one was a bit tough. I'm able to forgive, though, based on past precedent, and will chalk it up to a bad day for the kanpachi fishermen.But, the crown jewel of my meal, as it always is at this place, is the Chutoro, that delicate, fatty, belly cut of tuna which
melts in your mouth as you eat it. Although,
nothing can break your heart more than when my friend says, "Chutoro, finish". It's happened more than once to me, and few words have rung so heavy in my ears and heart.This restaurant is humble and quaint. There are certainly fancier and more expensive sushi joints to frequent, and for a more festive evening or luncheon, I would. But if you just want tasty, fresh sushi, and a hell of a fun experience, check out Sushi Bar Ginsen the next time you are in the neighborhood. I assure you that my friend will take good care of you.
As we once learned from my friend Mr. Miyagi, "te" means 'hand' in Japanese. The martial art "kara-te" means 'empty hand'. But, I can assure you, there are no empty hands at Sushi Bar Ginsen - just chop sticks grabbing greedily for the Sushi Samurai's latest offering. Forget about the flies.
Sushi Bar Ginsen
Ginza District
Tokyo, Japan
Danger awards an extremely honorable 4 Ninja Star Throwing Oven Mitts to Sushi Bar Ginsen
(all photos by Danger)
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